Basic Care Guide for the Crested Gecko - subtropical, crepuscular

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Cage Requirements

An Exo Terra or similar brand tank or tub of 25.4cm (w) x 27.10cm (d) x 40.64cm (h) is the minimum for an adult crested gecko based on the average 'Snout to Vent' (SVL) measurement of  10.16cm found on Google . Of course, I would recommend larger cages as those measurements listed above are the basic minimum. Since Crested geckos are arboreal (tree climbing) make sure  your enclosure is taller than wider. 

There should be plenty of plants and places to hide . I recommend plastic plants stuck on the glass, as they are very easy to wash clean.

I recommend crested geckos to be housed individually. Some people claim that females can be housed together but this is only recommended by extremely experienced keepers.

Food

A crested gecko diet should be offered. Follow the instructions on the packet and add water to make up a mixture that is without lumps and smooth like ketchup consistency. This should be offered every second day. I recommend a complete diet by Pangea or Repashy. They can be bought at reputable online shops such as elitecresties.com or geckodiet.uk

Insects should also be offered and dusted with calcium with added D3 if no uvb is being used. I recommend Repashy Supercal MeD this is the brand I have been using for years with good results. I offer appropriately sized crickets or dubia roaches. Look on my Tiktok for tips on how to feed roaches to the geckos!

UVB

UVB is recommended and the one most people recommend is the Arcadia Shade dweller at 6% strength. This should be set on a timer with a natural day/night cycle. I personally use this. You will need a Solar Meter to accurately measure what UV is reaching your animals. Crested Geckos fall under the Ferguson zone 1. This means Cresties should receive a range of UVI 0-0.7 (Maximum UVI 0.6-1.4 in the basking zone).

 

Humidity
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‌I recommend that your gecko be misted once every evening. 
If the cage is still damp from the day before only mist very lightly. The cage should dry out completely in between mistings. The cage SHOULD NOT be constantly damp! This will lead to respiratory and shedding problems! 

‌‌Your gecko should have access to fresh water at all times. This should be offered in a small dish. I use filtered water for drinking and misting.

 

Substrate
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‌For a new gecko in your home, I would greatly recommend using paper kitchen towel on the floor. This will allow you to monitor your gecko. 
‌This is going to sound very odd but the first thing I would do when getting a new gecko is to quarantine it. This means to keep it in a separate room from any other geckos. Keep your gecko on kitchen paper towel  on the  cage floor and you will be able to see the poops. If the poops are runny and icky you'll know there's a problem. But equally you will be able to see if your gecko is eating! Many times, customers will get in touch saying their gecko isn't eating but actually it is! Just very small amounts! If you see poops, you know your gecko is eating and you're doing things right! 
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‌When you're happy your gecko has settled in (normal quarantine time is 90 days) you can then change the substrate over to eco-earth or moss. You can also add a clean up crew of springtails and isopods if you wish at this point. 

Heating

Room temperature is recommended. So that means between 18-25C
‌No additional heat is required unless you live somewhere below this range. 
‌Normal houses these days have central heating and this is sufficient to keep your gecko happy.  

Handling
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‌When your new gecko is settling in, it's best not to handle your gecko straight away. Handling adds stress to their life, and while they're getting used to their new surroundings it's always best to leave them be. 
‌However after a couple of weeks, you can get your gecko used to you with short 5 minute handling sessions each day. Your gecko will calm down quickly by the 'hand walking' technique.